The heater pipes (notorious for going out after car is 10+ years old) are no. 8 and 6 here (all 3 hoses on the right side of drawing... no. 6 is two hoses, poorly labelled)... and old o-rings are pesky to get out. The intake manifold needs to come off to get to all this... I would recommend letting your indy do it because there are several other things he can check and replace easily while he is in there: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT53&mospid=47587&btnr=11_2638&hg=11&fg=35
Entire cooling system overhaul (you definitely need a new expansion tank): http://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...overheating&highlight=cooling+system+overhaul
1) Can you list out all the other things the indy can check/change while he's in there? (while the intake manifold is off)
2) . Is #6 1 hose or two? In RealOEM, I only get 1 part number, and the photo at AutoHauzAZ only shows 1 hose. (for $67) Can someone tell me exactly what I need to order to replace all my coolant hoses?
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I went through the same thing trying to find all the cooling/ heater hoses .
There are eight total on my '97 .
You can find them all on realoem but you need to check three different diagrams .... Heating / Cooling, intake manifold, engine cooling water system .
No single hose cost more then $15 if my memory serves me right.
You all should replace the air hoses on the startup air pump . More then likely your discharge hoses is toast.
Econo, have them replace the Heater inlet pipe and the Water pipe. Number six is a one piece. The hose toward the bottom is a rubber hose to which I see no number on it. Depending on your funds, I would replace the knock sensors, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Starter, OFH Gasket and the Crackcase Vent Valve if they are all original. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for some time, do it right the first time and be done with it! Less trouble is always worth more money!!
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Discussion Starter· #7 · (Edited)
Econo, have them replace the Heater inlet pipe and the Water pipe. Number six is a one piece. The hose toward the bottom is a rubber hose to which I see no number on it. Depending on your funds, I would replace the knock sensors, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Starter, OFH Gasket and the Crackcase Vent Valve if they are all original. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for some time, do it right the first time and be done with it! Less trouble is always worth more money!!
2) Engine => Engine Coooling => COOLING SYSTEM WATER HOSES *
The 3rd pipe seems to be #5. Should I replace all 3?
RED = #8 = water pipe = 11537502525 ($64) BLUE = #6 = heater inlet = 11531705210 ($28) GREEN = #5 = Water hose = 11531438634 ($27)
Should I also replace #1 $ #3? Should I also replace #11 & 16 ?
Also, which o-rings will I need? Just two #7's? What about #14 clamp?
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Econo, both pipes, 8 and 6, have the O-ring on them already. If you don't have that clamp, you can loose fit a zip tie to hold them in place. There is a hose that connects to the 8 hose and it connects to your heater valve...replace that hose. I think it is the 5 hose on the top diagram on your reply to AH6. As for hoses 1 3 11 and 16, you didn't mention if the radiator and expansion tank are fairly new. 1/2 years new? If ALL those items are original...Replace them! Now here's the thing, you are just shy of completing a Full Cooling System overhaul. The Water pump and Thermostat housing would complete that with all the aforementioned. It's a hard hit to the billfold, but not as expensive as the potential damage of a Cooling System Failure. You don't want to be sitting on the side of the road telling yourself you should have replaced X,Y and Z.
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Discussion Starter· #9 ·
Wave, My entire cooling system has been replaced, except the hoses (fan, fan clutch, water pump, radiator, thermostat, coolant, all pulleys/tensioners)
So, I want to finish the rest, since it's only as good as the weakest link. I will order everything (#8,6,5,1,3,11,16) from the colored diagram. All 7 hoses. I'll probably pay the indy to install them, since I''ve never removed the intake (and I hear bleeding a system is a nightmare)
I am still confused about what else I need. Is #5 the only hose I need to replace from the heater core diagram?
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Econo, if you can turn a wrench, you can save a ton of money and do it yourself! No biggie if you can't. Removal of the Intake and the bleeding process is Not difficult at all. So, back to the hoses...#5, #12 and #11. Those 3 hoses connect to the Heater Valve. If you change your mind about wreching it, just give a shout!
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Discussion Starter· #11 · (Edited)
Ok, maybe I'll try this one myself. I've only done some basic DIYs like: O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Fuel Filter , Headlight Adjusters, Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl, etc.
Ok, so these are the hoses I will replace: 3 from the first diagram, 7 from the other. Total of 10 hoses!
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Just Label Every Connector and make yourself a diagram. I placed the Bolts, Screws, Nuts in separate ziplock bags and labeled them as to their location...(Valve Body, Oil Dipstick)Look into replacing hose #13 and #14 from the first diagram as well...then you will have ALL hoses covered! I say you are qualified to make this repair from what you have mentioned! You will also need a new Intake Gasket and not a bad idea to replace the Throttle Body Gasket. It's really Not a difficult D.I.Y. On a scale of 10, I give it a 5. You'll be glad you took it on and didn't shell out the Money!
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Once you remove the Intake, Everything is visible! The ONLY problem I forsee is when you remove both the Heater and Water pipe, it is highly possible that the tips will break off in the engine block. It's not actually a problem per say, you just have to carefully pry them out. The O-ring is on the tip and is a tight fit, as it should be! I used a medium pick and flat screwdriver to remove them. If you have a Tap that fits, it will make quick work out of it. Other than that, the rest is a breeze. If you go slow, label and triple check everything, you'll end up satisfied! As for introducing a Vacuum leak, I seriously doubt it unless you don't pay attention to detail! I wouldn't tell you to do something I haven't done. I was kind of intimidated at first, but once you start removing things and labeling them, you gain confidence and then it's a piece of cake! Do you have the Service Manual? The Gaskets you put up, #2's, are the ones you will need. Nuts on the Intake are 11ft-lbs,and should come right off. Hoses are remove/replace. Just take your time and once more...LABEL!
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Typing /cooling system and/or /hoses in the bestlinks nets these related threads: - Complete cooling system overhaul recommended parts list (1) - Locating and replacing the additional 1996-98 M52 coolant hoses (1)
So, I'll cross reference this thread to those, and, I think I'll add into the bestlinks: - How to locate all the cooling system hoses in the BMW E39 (1) (2) (3)
As always, if you know of better links to cross reference or add to the bestlinks, just let me know. EDIT: See also these three problematic hoses: - Why you want to perform the three-hose portion of the cooling system overhaul while replacing your CCV (1)
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Discussion Starter· #16 · (Edited)
Based on BlueBee's post, this doesn't seen to be a very popular DIY on the forums. Do people really bother to replace all 10 coolany hoses? Or is this just overkill?
I need detailed directions with photos, and it doesn't look like it exists. Cooling system DIY's are there, but not for these other obscure cooling hoses. I love the idea of replacing all my hoses, but I think I am going to skip this one, as it's over my head without a proper write up. I can't undertake a project that isn't totally documented with a detailed DIY.
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Discussion Starter· #17 ·
Once you remove the Intake, Everything is visible! The ONLY problem I forsee is when you remove both the Heater and Water pipe, it is highly possible that the tips will break off in the engine block. It's not actually a problem per say, you just have to carefully pry them out. The O-ring is on the tip and is a tight fit, as it should be! I used a medium pick and flat screwdriver to remove them. If you have a Tap that fits, it will make quick work out of it.
Without a photo, I have no idea what you're talking about, unfortunately.
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Discussion Starter· #18 ·
WaveSurfin3100, was there a reason you did not advise to also change out hoses #1,4,13,14 (The only hoses left uncolored)
